Follow the whims of appetite and make street snacks
When traveling in Mexico or dining out closer to home, I seek out antojitos — those little whims of street snacks and appetizers. My favorites include flavor-packed, handheld chalupas and sopes made from corn masa dough that has been transformed into crispy, crusty golden containers. They are perfect for Cinco de Mayo, but equally delicious any day of the year.
After a year of pandemic yeast dough and quick bread projects, it’s a pleasure to work with corn masa dough — it’s super simple and forgiving. This flavorful, gluten-free dough is used in the Mexican kitchen for everything from corn tortillas to quesadillas, tamales, dumplings and — of course — shallow rounds for sopes and chalupas that resemble small canoes.
If you live near a tortilleria, by all means purchase freshly made masa dough for the snacks. Most of us will have access to powdered corn masa in a Mexican market or large grocery store. It’s super simple to reconstitute the powdered masa with hot water for tortillas. For the recipes below, a bit of oil, salt and baking powder yields a tender result.
Once you have your corn masa dough ready, it’s time to make your fillings, though the number of fillings will depend on your available time and the number of guests you’re serving. I have three suggestions to get you started. The first — begin with firm tofu, which stands in for a less rich, albeit not very authentic, protein for picadillo; ground turkey or pork are other options. Potato, poblano and chorizo is another Pueblan-inspired filling, while shredded chicken with chipotle and avocado brings me back to Oaxaca.
Serve the sopes or chalupas with a generous spoonful of slightly warmed salsa or Mexican hot sauce. A sprinkle of fresh cilantro or sliced scallions brightens everything with color and flavor.
If you don’t want to make your own corn masa dough, you can always make the fillings and serve them tucked into hot tortillas for a fabulous taco party. If you go this route, know that corn tortillas need to be hot to be pliable enough to bend without falling apart. Brush a tortilla with some oil and lay the oiled side down on a hot griddle. Repeat with a second tortilla. After about one minute, when the tortillas are hot, sandwich them (oiled side in) together. Place about 1/3 cup of your hot filling in the center; fold and serve immediately.
Whether you make chalupas, sopes or tacos, any of these recipes would be a perfect way to celebrate Cinco de Mayo. While May 5 marks the victory over France in the battle of Puebla, it’s not widely celebrated in Mexico. However, in the United States, the date inspires Mexican food and drink festivities. And it’s a great time to dip into our Mexican recipe repertoire.
Crispy Chalupas (or Sopes)
Total time: 45 minutes
Prep time: 25 minutes
Cook time: 20 minutes
Makes 20 to 24
The corn masa shapes can be cooked up to 2 days in advance and stored at room temperature in a closed container. Place on a baking sheet and put into a heated 350-degree oven to reheat and re-crisp before filling, about 10 minutes.
You need 3 to 4 cups filling for the number of masa shapes here. Make or assemble your fillings up to several days in advance, cover and refrigerate. Reheat or bring to room temperature while you prepare the corn masa containers.
- 2 cups (10 ounces) powdered masa harina, such as Maseca, OR 1 pound fresh masa dough for tortillas
- 2 tablespoons sunflower, safflower or expeller pressed canola oil
- 1 teaspoon salt
- 1/2 teaspoon baking powder
- Sunflower, safflower or expeller pressed canola oil for shallow frying
- Chopped fresh cilantro, for serving
- Salsa, warmed for serving
Mix masa harina and 11/3 cups very hot water in a medium-size bowl with a spoon until a dough forms. (Alternatively, put fresh masa dough in the bowl without the water.) Add 2 tablespoons oil, salt and baking powder.
Use clean hands to work ingredients into dough, then gather dough into a smooth ball. Dribble in teaspoons of water as needed to make a soft dough that isn’t crumbly.
Divide the dough in half, then divide each half into 10 to 12 equal portions (each about 1 ounce) and roll each into a ball. Cover the balls with a damp towel.
For chalupas, put one dough ball onto a piece of parchment paper. Use clean hands to shape the dough ball into a football about 21/2 inches long. Use your fingertips to press a slight indentation in the center of the football to form a shallow canoe shape about 2 inches long with thick sides. Place it back under the damp towel while you shape all the balls. (Always keep the dough covered with a moist towel to prevent drying.)
Alternatively, for sopes, flatten the ball into a 21/2 inch diameter round disk. Use your fingertips to pinch up an edge, about 1/2 inch in height, to form a shallow cup.
Line a baking sheet with a paper towel. Turn on the exhaust fan.
Pour oil into a large nonstick skillet to a depth of 1/4-inch. Heat over medium until hot but not smoking. Check the oil temperature by dipping an edge of a corn masa shape into the oil; it should sizzle. Add several corn masa shapes (canoes or cups) to the pan without crowding them. Fry until bottoms are beautifully golden, about 2 minutes. Carefully flip to fry the edge of the shapes to golden, about 1 minute. Flip again so they are flat side down and spoon a little of the oil in and around the shapes’ edges. Cook 1 to 2 more minutes to crisp. Carefully remove to prepared baking sheet. Repeat to fry all the shapes.
Top each hot, crispy chalupa or sope with 1 to 2 tablespoons of the warmed filling of your choice. Choices include caramelized onion and tofu picadillo; potato, poblano and chorizo; or shredded chicken with chipotle and avocado.
Other easy options include sauteed mushrooms and onion, guacamole, refried black beans and shredded cheese.
Sprinkle with cilantro. Spoon on salsa as desired. Eat out of hand with plenty of napkins or place on a plate, garnish with a salad and use a fork to enjoy.
Caramelized Onion and Tofu Picadillo
Total time: 25 minutes
Prep time: 15 minutes
Cook time: 10 minutes
Makes about 41/2 cups
You can swap out the tofu with 1 pound ground turkey or pork, browned in a skillet until cooked.
- 2 tablespoons vegetable oil
- 1 small (6 ounce) sweet onion, chopped
- 1/2 medium-size red bell pepper, seeded and chopped
- 2 or 3 cloves garlic, minced
- 1 (6-ounce) can tomato paste
- 1/3 cup sliced pitted manzanilla or kalamata olives, or a combination
- 1 tablespoon cider vinegar
- 1 teaspoon kosher salt
- 1 teaspoon smoked sweet paprika
- 1/2 teaspoon ground cumin
- 1/4 teaspoon each: dried oregano
- 1/4 teaspoon thyme
- Pinch of sugar
- Pinch of cinnamon
- Pinch of crushed red pepper flakes
- 1 pound very firm tofu, well-drained
In a large nonstick skillet over medium-high heat, heat 2 tablespoons oil. Add 1 chopped onion; cook and stir until well-browned, about 6 minutes.
Stir in 1/2 chopped bell pepper and 2 to 3 cloves minced garlic; cook 1 minute.
Stir in 6 ounces tomato paste, 1/3 cup sliced olives, 1 tablespoon cider vinegar, 1 teaspoon salt, 1 teaspoon smoked paprika, 1/2 teaspoon cumin, 1/4 teaspoon oregano, 1/4 teaspoon thyme and a pinch each of sugar, cinnamon and crushed red pepper. Stir in 2 or 3 tablespoons water to loosen the mixture.
Remove from heat and cool. (Mixture can be made up to 2 days in advance and stored, covered, in the refrigerator.)
Reheat onion mixture if necessary in the skillet. Crumble in the tofu and cook, stirring so the tofu is fully mixed in, until piping hot, about 2 minutes. Taste and adjust seasonings. Use to fill chalupas, sopes or in warm tortillas for a taco filling.
POTATO, POBLANO AND CHORIZO
Total time: 30 minutes
Prep time: 15 minutes
Cook time: 15 minutes
Makes about 3 cups
- 1 medium russet potato, about 8 ounces
- 6 to 8 ounces uncooked Mexican pork chorizo, removed from casing
- 1/2 small white onion, chopped
- 1 poblano pepper, cored, seeded and cut into ½-inch pieces
- 1 or 2 cloves garlic, crushed
- 1/2 teaspoon dried oregano, preferably Mexican
- Salt to taste
- 1/2 to3 / 4cup (4 ounces) crumbled queso fresco or farmers cheese
- 2 to 4 tablespoons chopped fresh cilantro
1. Scrub potato clean and pierce in several spots with the tip of a knife. Microwave on high (100 percent power) until fork-tender, about 5 minutes. Cool, then cut into small dice (skin is fine).
2. Meanwhile, put 6 to 8 ounces crumbled chorizo and ½ small chopped onion into a large nonstick skillet. Set over medium heat and cook, stirring and breaking up the chorizo with a wooden spoon, 5 minutes.
3. Add poblano pepper, 1 to 2 cloves crushed garlic and ½ teaspoon oregano; cook and stir until chorizo browns, 5 more minutes. Stir in diced potato.
4. Taste and adjust seasonings, adding salt as needed. Stir in 4 ounces crumbled cheese and 2 to 4 tablespoons chopped cilantro. Use warm or at room temperature to top chalupas or sopes or to fill warm tortillas for tacos.
SHREDDED CHICKEN WITH CHIPOTLE AND AVOCADO
Total time: 15 minutes
Prep time: 12 minutes
Cook time: 3 minutes
Makes about 3 cups
Grilled or poached chicken thighs, shredded after cooking, taste great here and stay moist when reheated. Rotisserie chicken is also an option.
- 3 cups shredded cooked chicken
- 1/2 of a 14-ounce can diced fire-roasted tomatoes with can juices
- 2 tablespoons ketchup
- 2 green onions, thinly sliced
- 2 to 3 teaspoons pureed chipotle in adobo
- 1/2 teaspoon salt
- 3 tablespoons chopped fresh cilantro
- 1 small avocado, pitted and chopped
1. In a medium, microwave-safe bowl, mix together 3 cups shredded chicken,1 / 2can fire-roasted tomatoes, 2 tablespoons ketchup, 2 sliced green onions and 2 to 3 teaspoons chipotle. Microwave on high (100 percent power) until warm, 2 to 3 minutes.
2. Stir in1 / 2teaspoon salt, 3 tablespoons chopped cilantro and avocado. Use warm or at room temperature to fill chalupas, sopes or warm tortillas for tacos.