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Kefta, rolled from ground beef or lamb, is not a meatball. Meat oval, meat lollipop, meat blob, perhaps. Not ball.

Cooks often describe them as torpedoes, though the weapon is named after a cigar, and the cigar is named after an electric ray that’s flat below, humped above and topped with small, close-set, menacing eyes. Not something I’d like to find flopping on my carrot salad.

The only commonality these shapes share is that they come to a point, as should I. So: Format kefta however you like, as long as it’s not a sphere, which is wrong. Charred outside, carrying a payload of garlic, mint and parsley, they’re the bomb.

Kefta

Prep: 30 minutes plus 1 hour to chill

Cook: 6 minutes

Serves: 4 as an appetizer, 2 as a main dish

Garlic mash

1 plump clove garlic

1 teaspoon kosher salt

Carrot salad

2 tablespoons freshly squeezed lemon juice

2 tablespoons olive oil

1 teaspoon honey

1/8 teaspoon ground cayenne pepper

1 pound (about 8 large) carrots, peeled, trimmed

1/4 cup chopped fresh parsley

2 tablespoons roasted, salted pistachios

Kefta

Half a yellow onion

1/2 pound ground lamb

2 tablespoons finely chopped fresh mint leaves

1 tablespoon finely chopped fresh parsley

Freshly ground black pepper

Canola oil

Mash: For the garlic mash, drop garlic into a mortar. Sprinkle on salt. Using pestle, mash to a paste.

Whisk: For the salad, whisk together the lemon juice, olive oil, honey, cayenne and a scant 1/4 teaspoon of the garlic mash.

Shred: Using the second-largest holes on a box grater or the small shredding disk of a food processor, shred the carrots. Heap into a bowl. Sprinkle on parsley. Pour on lemon dressing. Toss. Chill 1 hour or more.

Mix: For the kefta, grate the onion on the largest holes of a box grater. Scoop up handfuls of onion and squeeze, discarding liquid. In a large bowl, mix together onion, lamb, mint, parsley and the remaining garlic mash. Season with about 1/4 teaspoon black pepper.

Shape: Divide lamb mixture into 8 portions and shape each into a torpedo. If working ahead, chill.

Char: Flick on the range exhaust. Lightly oil a ridged griddle pan, and set over high heat. Add kefta torpedoes, and cook, turning to cook all sides, until charred outside and still a bit pink inside, 6-8 minutes.

Serve: Scoop cold carrot salad onto each of 2 big or 4 small plates. Scatter on pistachios. Top with kefta. Enjoy.

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