It may look and sound like a weed, but lemon grass actually is one of the most important ingredients in Southeast Asian cooking.

Lemon grass pairs best with meat and seafood, as well as other signature flavors of Southeast Asia, including ginger and coconut milk. It is available all year in the grocer's produce section. Look for firm stalks that aren't wilted or dried. It keeps for several weeks in the refrigerator.

Lemon Grass Stir-Fry

Start to finish: 20 minutes active

Servings: 4

Two 4-inch pieces lemon grass, lightly crushed with a meat mallet or rolling pin

1/4 cup canola oil, plus 2 tablespoons

1/2 cup white wine

1/2 tablespoon whole peppercorns

1 teaspoon salt

1/2 teaspoon garlic powder

1/2 teaspoon ground cumin

1/4 teaspoon dry ginger

3 boneless, skinless chicken breasts (about 1 1/2 pounds), cut into 1-inch chunks

3 cups broccoli florets

2 red bell peppers, cored and cut into strips

1 tablespoon cornstarch

1/4 cup cool water

Rice or egg noodles, to serve

In a small saucepan over medium-low heat, combine the lemon grass, 1/4 cup of the canola oil and the wine. Heat to a low simmer, then set aside to cool to room temperature.

Meanwhile, in a spice grinder, combine the peppercorns, salt, garlic powder, cumin and ginger. Grind until reduced to a fine powder. Stir this mixture into the oil and lemon grass mixture, then transfer the entire thing to a large bowl. Add the chicken, toss to coat, then refrigerate for at least 1 hour.

When ready to cook, heat a wok or large, deep saute pan over medium-high. Add the remaining 2 tablespoons of canola oil and heat until nearly smoking.

Add the broccoli and red peppers and saute until just starting to brown, about 5 to 6 minutes. Use a slotted spoon to transfer the vegetables to a plate.

Discard the lemon grass from the chicken, then add the chicken to the pan, reserving the marinade in the bowl. Cook until starting to brown, about 10 minutes.

Add the marinade from the bowl to the wok and bring to a boil. Cook for 2 minutes. In a glass, mix together the cornstarch and water, then add to the pan.

Cook until the sauce thickens, about another 2 minutes. Return the vegetables to the pan and toss to coat. Season with salt and pepper. Serve over rice or noodles.